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Thursday, August 1, 2013

JAMDANI--THE MAGNIFICANT TRADITIONAL DRESS OF BENGOLI ORIGIN

Jamdani is a magnificent hand made sari by woven fabric made of cotton historically which was termed as maslin.

This is the traditional dress of Bengoli origin. This is the most time and labour concentrated forms of weaving hand loom weaving. In the first half of the 19th century James Tailor described the figured Jamdani. In the Late 19th century T.N Mukharji referred to this fabric as Jamdani. This is the traditional dress for Bangoli weeding ceremony. Also traditional dress for Bangladeshi bride.

Jamdani made by woven fabric in cotton whether figure of flowered. It is undoubtedly on of the varieties of the finest maslin. This is one of the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. It needs two people to make one jamdani sari. It takes time to make one simple Jamdani sari at least one week. It depends on the design how much time it will take. Traditionally Jamdani sari made around Dhaka spacially in Sonargaon, Dhaka and Rupgonj, Dhaka and created on the loom brocade, Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs. Jamdani is a fine maslin cloth on which enhancing motifs are woven on the loom, typically in white and grey. Sometimes a mixture of cotton and gold thread used.

Jamdani is a Persian word. Jam means flower and Dani means a container. So the word Jamdani means 'Flower Container'.

Though mostly Jamdani is used as sari, it also used for panjabi, saloar etc. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth making techniques of Bengal with the muslin producer since 14th century. Jamdani are mostly of geometric, plant and floral design and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion since thousand of year ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford this luxuries. But now every one have opportunity to afford this luxuries.

There is no exact time when Jamdani came to be ornamented with floral patterns of the loom. However, in the Mughal period, most likely during the supremacy of Emperor Akbar or Emperor Jahangir, the figured or flowered maslin came to know as the Jamdani. Forbes Watson in his most valuable work upper class Textile manufactures and costumes of the people of subcontinent hold that the figured Maslin, because of their complicated design.

In the middle of 19th century there was a gradual decline in the Jamdani industry. There is a number of factors to this decline. It is the low quality products and the decline of Mughal power in the subcontinent.

In the 21th century Jamdani has taken a new look with the renovation of a fashionable and class look. Now the Dhakai Jamdani is woven meticulously by hand on the old fashioned Jala Loom and many take even upto one year to make a single Jamdani sari. At present Jamdani sari made in Sonargaon Folk Museum, Dhaka. In the Folk Museum there are opportunity to buy Jamdani Sari. You can also order Jamdani Shari hare with your selected design. It will take one or two week to supply Jamdani.